This 34 hectare biodynamic vineyard was sadly on the wrong side of the track – just three metres – when the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1936. There are the same galettes as over the border, and the Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is just as classy, especially at this price.

This wine was first made by Alain Jaume in 1978, and it shows classic deep and juicy black fruits, spicy pepper notes and a dense palate that, while weighty, is enlivened by fresh acidity.